There is a way, and there’s no way to go on steep waves.
You’ll have the best ride of your entire life if you do it correctly.
If you do it wrong, however, you could be on your way to being smashed.
How do you get off steep waves?
WHAT DO STEEP WAVES MEAN TO US?
A steep wave is a wave’s degree of incline before it breaks.
Surfers call waves “steep” when there is a steep gradient, which means that the surfer must negotiate a late drop.
HOW ARE STEEP WAVES FORMED?
Different waves can have different degrees of steepness, depending on:
- The power of the swell.
- It’s amazing how big the swell is.
- It is amazing how quickly water changes from deep to shallow.
These factors will determine how fast the wave breaks and how steep it will go through the breaking stages.
You can jump on steeper waves and do it more often, which can open up new possibilities for surfing.
This will increase your wave count and increase your make rate. It’s what distinguishes intermediates from advanced users.
It’s something that you will definitely want to know.
How can you get in on a wave late?
STEP 1 – POSITIONING
When it comes to taking off in steep waves, positioning is everything.
This is the most important part.
Why is positioning so important
The four stages of breaking waves are usually completed quickly by steep waves. In fact, some waves, such as slabby reef breaks, can go from ocean swell into breaking wave within a matter of metres.
You won’t be able to take off if you are 1m too far from the ground.
If you are sitting too far out, the wave will roll beneath you and you won’t be able get in.
You have very little room for error when surfing such waves. It can take only inches to get in the spot.
Here are some tips for positioning.
- Be attentive to the waves after they break. Every wave will leave a trace of where and how it broke. This can be used to adjust your position.
- Use visual marks: Look for markers along the shore (e.g., a house, tree or people) to determine your position in water.
- What to look for in water cues What visual cues should you be looking for in the water movements As in how water draws off the reef. How the water moves when it approaches a wave.
STEP 2 – TIMING
You’ve now placed yourself in the spot. Now it’s time to timing everything.
If you paddle too quickly, you will lose your position and the wave will become too steep.
If you paddle too late, the wave will just roll beneath you.
This takes experience and there are no shortcuts.
You must pay your bills and work hard to get the job done.
STEP 3 – PADDLING
Once you have completed the above steps, it is time to move on to paddling.
How can you get into a steeper wave without paddling?
Answer: As hard and fast as possible.
The wave’s steepness will be less severe if you get in the wave earlier.
You’ll be able to take off much easier if you do your paddling early.
STEP 4: GET UNDER IT
When paddling into steep waves, the goal is to “get under it”, which I mean that you and your surfboard for hire in Croyde should get under the lip of breaking wave.
Let me explain.
You can get under the lip to attach your board to the wave’s face.
If you are not under the wave, you will likely be pitched by the lip. This means that you’ll need to air drop your takeoff.
It’s possible, but not ideal.
Do your best to keep your lips as tight as possible.
STEP 5 – COMPRESS & RELEASE
It’s obvious that you will need to get up to speed as soon as possible.
You will need to compress and then release from there.
Let me explain.
- Compress Fit your body in the curve of the wave. Stay small and keep it compressed while you do this part.
- Release Gradually release your body’s compression, and then extend to fit the curve of the wave.
STEP 6 – REMOVE THE ANGLE
How can a skier descend a steep mountain?
From right to left.
Why is that?
The severity of the incline can be reduced by cutting across the mountain, rather than going straight down.
You should not go straight when taking off on steep waves. This is the most difficult and steepest way to do so. Instead, angle your takeoff to reduce the slope (just like the skier).
This is how you can make a wave that was once impossible possible.
STEP 7 – COMMITMENT
It is better to be committed than to hesitate. And when you take off in steep waves, it is easy for things not to go according the plan.
If you hesitate, you will take a wave that is otherwise manageable and be smashed.
If you are in position and the wave comes to your face, you’re in ‘the spot ‘…